Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
